Super Keen Crack Machine

Tom Randall

Tom Randall is one of those guys whose committment is incredibly admirable and what shows through in his climbing (and on his CV) is his love of climbing - of all types and in all places. A crack climbing fiend and a real trad climber, he's a perfect guy for Wild Country to help us test new gear and to give it some hammer in a lot of grim places!

Tom in one of those grim places, Gobblers Roof E7 6C....2nd ascent....Not only incredibly keen but very well travelled Tom's experience ranges from big walls to gritstone E7 and includes some hair raising activities such as (with partner Pete Whittaker) the most routes done in a day in the UK (and possibly the world) of 550. YES 550 routes in a day. Tom's at present working as a route setter in Sheffield at one of the climbing walls and I for one can only thank god for the others who train there that there are no cracks at the wall!

Climbing achievements (last 5 years):

• 1st Ascent of possibly the UK’s hardest offwidth, Melvin Bragg V8.
• 1st Ascent of I’ll Sleep When I’m Dead E5 6b, Valle d’Orco.
• 1st Ascent of Chelsea Pensioner E5 6c, Millstone.
• 1st Ascent of Shape Shifter E6 6b, Millstone.
• 2nd Ascent of Gobbler’s Roof E7 6c, Harborough Rocks.
• 2nd Ascent of Fessura Impossible E6 6c, Val di Mello.
• 3rd Ascent of Greenspit 5.14a, Valle d’Orco.
• 6th Ascent of Senora del Tampax 8a/E7 6c, Val di Mello.
• 6th Ascent of Ray’s Roof E7 6c, Baldstones.
• Record for most routes climbed in a day (550) with Pete Whittaker.
• First duo to complete the Brown and Whillan’s Challenge, with Pete Whittaker.

• Repeats of classic Yosemite routes such as Astroman, West Face of El Cap, Rostrum, Separate Reality, Dog’s Roof and Hangdog Flyer. 3 El Cap routes: Mescalito (clean), Tangerine Trip (clean) and Zodiac
• Trad routes up to E7 in the UK, but mainly a focus of big days out on mid E-number routes climbing everything that I can possibly fit in, in 12 hrs!
• New routes of up of E6 in the UK and also in Red Rocks in Nevada.
• First ascents of a number of UK boulder problems including Britain’s hardest crack climb - All Elements, V11/8A
• The only repeat that I know of, of Cedar Wright’s hideous off-width roof crack (as seen in First Ascent DVD) in Yosemite: The Cedar Eater.

Photos:

Video:

Tom Randall

in his own words

The most common question I get asked about my climbing and career choice is, “what’s wrong with you?!” It seems that the position of having to create and grade indoor routes is not exactly envied…. Then again, neither does it seem that people much fancy hanging by their legs in another upside crack wondering if they’re going to bit sick. Ever since a teenager I’ve not really been one to stick to the rules or follow what everyone else does or says is sensible, which I suppose has translated into climbing in some ways.

I started off my rock climbing with the usual trad apprenticeship like many others, but after injuring my heel quite badly I took some time off to explore the weird world of big walling. Most of my mates at Sheffield Uni thought it was sacrilege to be pulling on gear and risking myself on body weight placements over a period of days. But, to be honest I was just happy to be climbing somehow and even more happy that no one agreed with what I was doing! I had some amazing trips to Yosemite and climbing Mescalito clean with my mate was one of my most fond memories as it was just a day by day battle and we weren’t quite sure if we knew what we were doing.

After spending quite a bit more time out in the States and getting into crack climbing, I felt a draw towards the slightly wider variety. It’s probably because I was so crap at it to start with and also because everyone seemed to shun this style of climbing that I was attracted. Now that I’ve found a climbing partner back the UK (Pete Whittaker) who’s well up for this kind of thing, I’m really psyched. I’ve got an offwidth cellar built underneath our new house and we have massive training sessions down there just dangling upside down and building our tolerance to the blood rush! It’s pretty silly really, but I’m all about having a laugh and just not taking anything too seriously because life’s too short for that.

You asked for a bit from Kim – I asked her in bed and she said “You’re a freak, who loves pain and is a total masochist.” Then she came up with a more measured response this morning.

“Tom’s energy and motivation for climbing, like most aspects of his life is incredibly infectious and we’ve had some amazing times together on the end of a rope. Unfortunately as a consequence of his obsession he’s become a little lacking in the common sense and map reading department! I find the hardest part of the day for me is making sure he gets home ok, as it’s not unknown for him to drive back to completely the wrong city from the crag!”