I was born in Norway in 1984, with nomad blood, on a farm way out there. I grew up by mountains and I love the feeling of being a part of nature. I love exposure and high places. I love hiking into remote crags with a pack, I love feeling tired, I love being cold in the winter.
When people ask me when I started climbing , I like to quote a famous norwegian philosopher and mountaineer – Arne Næss “I just never stopped”
My older brother brought me rock climbing some time in my early 20s, and it looked like he was dancing up the walls. I got totally fascinated at how it captured my mind. For most of the time when I’m climbing the rest of the world just disappears. I’m completely in the moment. And after years of climbing, that same feeling is what keeps me inspired to go climbing and working on projects. I feel like the more I give to climbing and engage in the process of working a route, the more I get back. Every new route teaches me something new about myself. It makes all my weaknesses and strengths stick out, and it makes it all damn too clear sometimes ;) I feel like climbing teaches me how to work with the elements, not fight against them. (Although sometimes, sends are battles!) You can’t change the rock, you have to focus and commit to the next move.
The things that have given me the most satisfaction within climbing aren’t hard boulder problems or routes. But they were, at the time and in my mind, huge for me. I was pretty proud of myself when I lead my first aid pitch. It was on Prodigal Son in Zion, and I’d never done anything like it in my life. I struggled up a C1 crack for something like four hours, but I hung in there. It was definitely an experience.
2009 and 2010 felt like a breakthrough in my climbing. I climbed sport, trad and boulders in Colorado, Utah, Montana, South Dakota, Nevada, California, Oregon, Australia, New Zealand, Thailand and Font. It was a incredible learning experience, and the diversity of climbing took me to the next level in this sport. The biggest accomplishment for me was the transition into being completely comfortable climbing trad. It happened in Indian Creek when, for the first time in my life, I felt solid charging on gear. In Norway there is not much splitter crack climbing, and it’s not a skill you can really train. But over the course of a few days in Utah, I basically learned to climb. After a week I became obsessed with tips finger cracks and was climbing 5.12. The Utah desert inspires me more than anywhere I’ve been, and I’ll be back as soon to learn more.
Outside of climbing I really enjoy good coffee, traveling, yoga, and being part of nature in remote places. In 2004, I took a break from climbing and crossed country skied across Norway – a 3900 km journey that took 4.5 winter months. I’m planning a similar trip across Greenland, combined with some climbing in the coming years.
Currently I live part of the year in Norway, and part of the year in Colorado. I’m a student of alternative veterinary medicine and I coach a junior climbing team in Norway in the winter. When summer comes, I go to Colorado, travel a lot, and climb all over the place.
My long term goals within climbing are “simple.” I want to be a well-rounded climber an want to be “the master of my mind” in different environments, and on as many styles of routes and types of rock as possible. I want to explore my potential and enjoy each moment of climbing. I don’t want to get caught up in the grade race. I want the maximum experience out of it, without too many expectations on how it will unfold.
My immediate list of projects is long. One of my biggest goals is a free ascent on Moonlight Buttress.
My Website: www.rannveigaamodt.com
- Equalizer, V8, Estes Park, CO
- Ghost Rider , V8, Estes Park, CO
- The Kind Sit, V7, RMNP, CO
- Autobot Low Variation, V7, RMNP, CO
- Cave Route, V7, Joshua Tree, CA
- Art and Sport, 8a+, Thailand
- Sit-spins remix, 8a+, Thailand
- Sit-spins, 8a, Thailand
- Elephant, 8a, Thailand
- Helmet, 8a, Thailand
- The Rat Arete, 5.13a , Estes Park, CO
- No Have, 5.12c, Thailand
- April Fools, 5.12 b/c, Thailand
- Freeloader 5.12 b/c, Wanaka, NZ
- Lollapalooza 5.12 b/c, Wanaka, NZ
- Dave’s Arete, 5.12a/b, Paines Ford, NZ
- Swedin-Ringle, 5.12b, Indian Creek, UT
- Coyne Crack 5.12a, Indian Creek, UT
- J-Crack, 5.11c on sight, Estes Park, CO
- Astromonkey, 5.11d, Smith Rock, OR