Red Chili founder Stefan Glowacz and Christian Schlesener are spending some time rocking in Verdon
Red Chili Athleten Blog, 10. Mai 2012
Red Chili founder Stefan Glowacz is in the Gorge du Verdon in France at the moment trying to send an old multi-pitch project with Christian Schlesi Schlesener. Stefan tells us about their trip so far.
Written by Stefan Glowacz
The first time in our project after 7 years in the Verdon Gorge. Schlesi and I completely forgot about the route after we laboriously installed it. We were both busy with other projects. We were reminded of it again last fall after visiting the Gorge du Verdon again for a week and it cast its spell on us. The time up here in La Palud seems to have stopped. Nothing has changed. The same people in the same two bars, only their hair has gone gray and their faces are marked by the tough life. To me the gorge is and will be the best and most unusual climbing area in the world.
On the way to the wall in the Gorge du Verdon. Foto: Klaus Fengler
Amazingly enough the time in our 150 meter high, extremely overhanging pillar on the other side of the gorge also hasn’t passed. Even the fit locals haven’t tried the project, though it would have been legit after such a long time to complete the first ascent.
Five days ago we went into the route from below for the first time. We installed it from above with a huge effort back then. We were fascinated by the route again after just a few meters and we couldn’t believe we had forgotten about it for so long.
The first pitch is a classic warm-up graded 7a. The second pitch gets down to business and the wall shows its own character. The rock doesn’t have the ususal great Verdon quality and it’s even brittle, making it extremely interesting.
Stefan Glowacz and Christian Schlesener in their route. Foto: Klaus Fengler
The climbing is incredibly athletic, technical and very very demanding. We think the pitches are around 8b/8b+. But the fat of the land hides in the third pitch. An edgeless, very exposed, crimpy arête pulls into the sky like the bow of the Titanic. After four days of climbing we managed to figure out how to climb this crux pitch in the range around 8b/8c. Today is our rest day and tomorrow we want to try to score the first hard pitch and with a bit of luck also the second. After that it’s “just” the last pitch in the range of 7b up to the pillar’s peak.
Stefan Glowacz in the multi-pitch project Verdon. Foto: Klaus Fengler
Red Chili says: “Rock that thang boys!”
Robert Jasper scores first ascent of Shark’s Fin in Tierra del Fuego
Red Chili Athlete Blog, 10. Mai 2012
Red Chili extreme climber Robert Jasper was able to score the first ascent of the spectacular Shark’s Fin in a six week expedition with Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn.
Written by: Malte Roeper
Right in between the Strait of Magellan and Cape Horn there is a spectacular peak which resists the endless storms: Monte Giordano alias‚ Shark’s Fin’. Mountaineers and alpinists rarely come here and it is because of the constantly bad weather why this mountain had not been climbed before. It is so bad that the peak can hardly be seen throughout the year.
The team of the first ascent. Foto: Ralf Gantzhorn
In April, 2012 mountaineers Robert Jasper, mountain guide Jörn Heller and photographer Ralf Gantzhorn made the first ascent of Shark‘s Fin. The climb was one part of a 6-week expedition-adventure which began with the journey on a sailing vessel from Puerto of William – the most southern town of the world. Their experienced Chilenien Skipper Osvaldo Escobar needed three weeks to bring them to their starting point.
Weather and wind made the team stop on a tiny, lonesome island until the the hurricane passed by and they could risk the second part of the expedition. The bay they wanted to use as starting point for their way to basecamp turned out to be too dangerous to anchor in. Finally they used ropes to tie the boat to a secure cliff face to prevent it from being hit by the heavy storms.
The way to the mountain led them through subpolar rainforests, deep marshland and rugged glaciers. Their first attempt on Shark‘s Fin failed. Jörn Heller broke a rib which left him with hard breathing for the rest of the trip. Also their planned basecamp right on the foot of the mountain could not be established because of the heavy, permanent storms.
Monte Giordano. Foto: Ralf Gantzhorn
When the barometer finally climbed only three days before the planned departure the team went for the final attempt. It was their speed that turned out key to be the to success. Shortly after midnight on the 7th April in brigh moonlight they reached the summit. After 27 hours the team reached the boat safely.
The peak is indeed so unknown that maps differ in the published heights and contradicting names. Because of the spectacular shape which reminded the team of a shark‘s fin Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn named it exactly this way. Their GPS gave them a summit-altitude of 1517 m, 500 meters less than the Chilean maps.
After the first ascent of Ironman, one of the most difficult mixed climbs of the world, the first ascent of Shark‘s Fin was the second great success for Robert Jasper in 2012.
The team reached the peak via „Shark`s Fin Ridge“ (Westgrat ), bis M7. Foto: Ralf Gantzhorn
Red Chili congratulates Robert Jasper and his team!
Bernhard Roeck wins another Austria Cup in Imst!
Red Chili Athlete Blog, 07. May 2012
Red Chili athlete Bernhard Roeck was able to take home another victory in the Austria Cup in Imst. He stood out amongst his competitors as usual and topped the routes in the in pre-comps. In the finals he fell at the last hold, winning the fourth round of the Cup.
Next weekend Bernhard will be competing in the Austrian Championship in Dornbirn.
Bernhard Roeck, Austria Cup in Imst. Foto: Riha Ernst
Big congrats from us at Red Chili! We’re sending out good vibes for the Austrian Championship!
Bernhard Roeck wins Austria Cup in Mitterdorf, Austria
Red Chili Athlete Blog, 22. April 2012
Text: Stefan Roeck
Last Saturday marked the third competition of the Austria Cup which took place in Mitterdorf in Austria. Red Chili athlete Bernhard Roeck was in top shape and topped 3 routes, making him superior winner in male youth A. The routes were the same as in the male category and still Benni was able to top all routes!
Bernhard Roeck, Austria Cup in Mitterdorf
His sister Magdalena Roeck is taking a break from the comps to study for her upcoming finals. She is continuing her full training.
Awesome performance we at Red Chili think! We wish Bernhard all the best for the comp season and hope he continues to crush as usual!
Red Chili athlete Mirko Breckner frees routes in Andalusia, Spain
Red Chili Athlete Blog, 16. April 2012
Red Chili athlete Mirko Breckner crushed in Spain! He was able to free several routes in Andalusia and left us a great new route at the Sierra de Ortegicar.
Climbing in Spain with a view in Las Alcandoras
Text: Mirko Breckner
Classical climbing in southern Spain
If you think there’s only steep sport climbing in El Chorro in Spain you’re wrong. The density of classical routes may not be as high as in the Alps but you can find several alpine tours and there is potential for first ascents and for freeing old techno routes.
Mirko was probably the first to redpoint all pitches of „Los Halcones“ (7c, 250m) with its beautiful technical crux pitch. The belays of the route have been renewed and there are quite a few fixed intermediate belays. Still, you don’t really want to fall into the pitons and spits from 1978. Some spits are pulled out a bit already or torn off.
Topo “Los Halcones”
After a few easier first ascents around El Chorro, Villanueva del Rosario and Granada Mirko opened a 35m, very overhanging route in the Sierra de Ortegicar he called „Mirko 3,14“ (6b/+) after his friends. Because he didn’t have a climbing partner at first and also no mobile belays he checked out the route by repelling from the top, which was probably a good thing. The best holds in the overhang turned out to be chunks the size of microwaves that you could swipe down easily with just a touch. After checking out the route he redpointed it without hooks and the protection he had left.
„Mirko 3,14“ (6b/+) in the Sierra de Ortegicar
Sport climbing also went really well. Mirko was able to send his first 8a onsight („Alé Alé”) and his first 8a+ (“Kaiso Kerman”) the next day in Cacín. Probably the best known area to climb in Andalusia is Las Alcandoras near Jaén where you can find everything from alpine sport climbing to techo-routes that last several days. You can also find some nice granite routes on the east face of the Veleta (3428m) in the Sierra Nevada. The small alpine climbing community in southern Spain has a few Websites where new routes are published. In winter you can climb in the shade as well as in the sun and there’s no need to check the weather report since it hardly rains. If you want to pack some cams and half-ropes for your next winter vacation in Spain Mirko has the infos you need and you can contact him.
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